Removing a Lens Cell from a Burnished Mount   

lens sketch
Some Lens Elements are Permanently Installed



Sometimes lens elements are installed into their metal mounts in a way that defies disassembly. These were intended to be permanent assembly into the metal lensmount. Good practice is always followed in the regular optical industry and elements assembled this way never seal in any air to glass surfaces.

Nonetheless, cemented lens groups can be a problem if the cement fails. Sometimes such a lens, with failed cement and permanent assembly, can be restored.

clamp ring

Often, to complicate matters, the assembled elements may be frozen in place in the barrel or shutter. Disassembly can be difficult but possible.

In the case of groups stuck in barrel, like the old Collinear in this example, first fabricate one or two aluminum slotted rings like this one. These should be a close fit onto the cell mount and/or barrel and have a section of approximatly 1/2" The slot can be sawed on the bandsaw or by hand.

clamp setup

Next, clamp the lens in a lathe, using two three jaw chucks bearing on the specially made clamping rings so as not to mark the finish. Lock the spindle and with the second chuck aligned by the tailstock center unscrew the assembly. (You may want to use a little solvent or penetrating oil depending on the individual case) The adjustable wrench shown on the chuck jaw is no joke: This can require some real muscle

Once the two element groups and the mounting barrel have been taken apart there still remains removing the glass from its "rolled in" or "burnished" mount. cutting off Use a keenly sharpened cutoff or "parting" tool in the ordinary way to remove the turned in part of the brass mount. Turn at about 300 RPM and advance the tool slowly until the brass to be removed just parts. Any technique should have been practiced so as to avoid a burr on the inside of the cut. A clean cut without a burr will make removal of the glass easier. A burr on the inside of the cut will make the glass bind in the sleeve and be even more difficult to remove.

At this point the glass sometimes falls right out and you should be prepared for this. Usually, the glass is still stuck in the barrel either from a burr at the cut, the cut not having been made far enough back, old balsam or paint adhering the lens to the side of the barrel or any combination of the three. finished

In this case the glass remained stuck in the mount mostly due to old balsam and somewhat due to burring of the cut. Use an electric hot plate to warm the assembly to about 175 to 200 degrees F. or about as warm as you can handle with bare hands. (Like a cook can handle hot plates) If you set up the hot-plate so that gravity can allow the element to find a soft place to fall sometimes the balsam will soften at the edges and gravity will allow it to slide out.

thumb press

A fair amount of heat and thumb pressure were necessary to slide the lensgroup out. Great care must be taken to push the lens evenly and not allow it to become cocked to one side and jammed in the mount. This becomes most important at the very end of the removal where it must be nice and straight. Pushing the element out cocked at the last 1/8" will cause a flake/chip and spoil the lens. (Like the method used to flake flint into arrowheads)

finished

The desired result (removing the cemented group from the cell, from the barrel) is shown here. I did this job to illustrate the risks and complexities of this type of work. The end result illustrated (not including the photography for this page) took about three hours of concentrated work. And this is for one cell. Remains to the amateur owner to separate, re-cement, and solve the problem of re-assembly, either by threading the cell metal and fabricating a retainer, cementing the group back into the sleeve, or making the retainer a part of a mount to shutter adapter.


Due to the time intensive nature of this work amateur effort can pay off well. For valuable lenses or ones you want a minimum risk of damage to its best to pay the rate for my experience. There is a high probability that an amateur will spoil a lens and you should weigh that risk against the value of the lens.


This type of work can easily run to hundreds of dollars but the results can be spectacular.


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